Tales from the Logbook--Rights to the Reef

 

The Guardian newspaper recently featured an on-line article, Fiji wrestles with plans to restore Indigenous rights over world-famous surf breaks.  The story relates how the Fijian government is seeking to return customary rights to govern marine areas – known as qoliqoli – back to the Indigenous people.  This move would allow those people “to be compensated for tourism operations on the reefs and fishing grounds that have formed their livelihoods.”

The article notes that “until 2010, access to Cloudbreak, one of the world’s most famous surf waves, was barred to Fijian locals, due to an exclusivity deal with a high-end resort from the early 80s….In 2010, the Frank Bainimarama-led military dictatorship introduced a surfing decree, banning payments for the use of Fiji’s reefs, lagoons and beaches, and putting an end to all exclusivity deals….The Bainimarama decree meant open season on the waves for tourists and locals. This gave rise to a crop of young surfers, including Fiji’s first professional surfer – but trampled over customary marine rights, cutting (Indigenous people) out of decision-making or profits as foreign-owned resorts sprang up and surf tourism boomed….Now, the Fijian government wants to return the rights to govern marine back to the Indigenous people, allowing (them) to be compensated for tourism operations on the reefs and fishing grounds that have formed their livelihoods.”

Reading the article reminded me a visit to a Fijian village, Somosomo, while on a dive trip aboard M/V Naia in October 2017.  During the visit, the village leader during our welcoming ceremony explained that the residents are the “traditional guardians of the reef” and that its resources provide much for the village.  I sensed a protection ethic among the people and pride in their stewardship role.  I spoke and thanked the village for their guardianship as it had allowed us to see many wonderful sights.

Prior to departing Alaska to travel to Fiji and following the advice in the information packet provided by Naia, I purchased a number of school supplies for the village including pencils, crayons, and coloring books.  The coloring books I chose had an Alaska theme.  I wonder sometimes if those items resulted in amazement and wonder for some of the youngsters about a place cold and snowy. 

During our tour of the village, we learned that the older children are sent to a neighboring village during the week to attend school.  During our visit, we met mostly younger children of what I would guess would be preschool age.  They were very shy at first.  One of them approached me and motioned that she wanted “up”.  I lifted her to face level, said “hello, my name is Jim, would you like to go higher?” at which point I lifted her into the air above my head while saying “wheeeee.”  The resulting giggles proved that laughter is the universal language.  It also attracts other children who want to enjoy the same experience.  Suddenly, I am surrounded by children all waiting their turn.  It was wonderful.  I am also thankful for my weightlifting routine at home that included overhead presses.

We did encounter a form of “exclusivity” offshore of the privately-owned Wakaya Island, home to the Wakaya Club and Spa.  On October 15, 2017, we anchored in a bay a distance from the Club but still within sight of the buildings and boarded the tenders for a quick ride to the dive site.

We descended the 100-foot wall to find the den of the blue scorpion fish.  As part of the group, my buddy and I waited our turn to approach the den.  By the time our turn came, the fish had become spooked and pulled back into its hole.  The rest of the dive was spent checking out other life along the wall, such as the abundant anemone fish and the regal lionfish.  While I was observing a pipefish, my buddy pointed out a resting white tip shark.  It was a wonderful dive, 98 feet for 47 minutes.

Upon returning to the boat, we were informed of the need to relocate to another anchorage.  The resort had contacted the boat during our dive and objected our presence stating that their area was private and exclusive.  The skipper insisted that he had an email from the Fisheries Department stating that the boat could anchor in that location.  The resort responded that an email was not sufficient; they wanted a formal letter issued by the Fisheries Department. 

Apparently, the resort was concerned about the privacy of its guests.  We had many dedicated marine wildlife photographers on board not paparazzi taking pictures of their guests for the tabloids.  We moved to another spot since we were done with the dive and to avoid any further hurt feelings or complications.  According to Wikipedia, guests on the island have included  “Nicole Kidman and her husband Keith Urban, Bill Gates and his wife Melinda, Steve Jobs, Rupert Murdoch, George Lucas, Michelle Pfeiffer, David E. Kelley, Robert Zemeckis, Paris Hilton, Tom Cruise, and Keith Richards (who was hospitalised after falling from a coconut tree).”

According to their website, the current rate (2025) for a visit ranges from $2,500 to $11,000 per night for two guests with discounts for multiple day stays.