Seward Mariners' Memorial

Normally a bustling summertime destination, the onset of winter puts the harbor and town into a state of near suspended animation.  Snow on the mountains bordering the glacially carved Resurrection Bay on three sides seems to freeze traffic in and out of port.   

A lonely fishing vessel, head to a stiff north wind, approaches the entrance to Seward’s small boat harbor. The bright sunlight does little to temper the bone-chilling cold that sweeps the crewmember on deck.  He spies a grey and white lighthouse-like structure standing on the townside bank of the channel.  While it marks the last point of solitude before entering the harbor, the structure’s purpose is a mystery.   From seaward nothing but design hints at its function.  Perhaps a stylized daymark or some other aid to navigation?   But, no flashing beacon emanates from its peak and it lacks the traditional appearance of a hazard marker.  

The boat passes the tower leaving it astern as she exits the channel into the harbor.  Empty slips indicate the many vessels that have hauled out or fled with the shortening of each day’s light. Plastic cocoons some that remain against the elements until spring.  Others just seem to hunker down in aquatic hibernation.

The structure is a type of marker.  It serves as a reminder that the sea can be an unforgiving place.  The low metallic wall declares that one is entering the Seward Mariners’ Memorial. 
I discovered the site about four years ago.  I had seen it on trips in and out of the harbor for years, but really did not give it much attention.  That changed when I visited the site on a quiet winter's day.  It is a wonderful place for solitude and reflection with breathtaking views of the panorama of Resurrection Bay.  I make it a habit to visit the site on my overnight trips to Seward to work as a volunteer exhibits diver at the Alaska Sea Life Center.  During the summer, the Memorial offers a respite from the vehicle and pedestrian traffic in the harbor area.


The site honors the memory of Seward mariners who have lost their lives as sea or who have contributed to the local seafaring history and maritime industry.   And what a colorful history it is.

As the Memorial’s information brochure explains, “since its founding in 1903 as a railroad terminus, Seward’s maritime industry has become a sustaining force in the community.  Seward is a small town.  When word comes that a boat is in trouble or has gone down, locals hold their breath.”  It turns out, history shows, they also rally to respond and provide aid and assistance.  

One wall of the sanctuary features 10 historic plaques each“honoring individuals long departed from Seward’s shores.”  Examining the plaques begs the question “what is the story behind two side-by-side plaques commemorating an incident involving the US Coast and Geodetic Survey Ship Surveyor on October 4, 1927.  The plaques contain only the barest of detail, one memorializes two of the victims who drown when their skiff sank; the other the sailor who lost his life attempting their rescue.  Another makes one wonder what happened in February 1946 when 11 souls were lost aboard the Yukon at Johnston Bay in the Gulf of Alaska?  Visitors to town are likely to know more about the Yukon as an old waterfront bar rather than as a vessel associated with the history of the town and Alaska.  These are but three of the many plaques that hint at a story. 


On my most recent trip to Seward In November 2018, I started to investigate some of the details behind the incidents memorialized on the plaques.  I discovered wonderful archival collection and helpful staff at the Seward Museum and Library.  I will begin to retell the stories behind the incident in the entries to this blog in the next few months.

Please Don't Touch the Coral

What’s wrong with this picture? 


A snorkeler, perhaps intent on getting a better view of an organism, grabs on to coral in order to steady himself. 


“So what,” you might exclaim. “I see people do it all the time and have even done it myself.” 
 
Following the admonition, “let he who is without sin cast the first stone,” I will not toss a rock of criticism at the diver and will confess, “mea culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa.” Luckily, penance for this transgression is easily achieved—stay off the live bottom in the Hawaiian spirit of “Ola na; papa i pulama ‘ia”  (cherish the living reefs). 

Simply touching corals can cause the problems when oils from our skin disturb the mucous membranes that protect the animals from disease. Repeated handling in popular areas can cause the death of an entire colony.  Small seemingly inconsequential actions can accumulate into major effects.  We may think we are just swimming along, but plowing through the reef like a wrecking ball with fins does even worse damage.  I have seen people do both.  Both behaviors are easily controlled.

The Australian Great Barrier Reef Park Authority observes:

• Although divers and snorkelers have had minimal impact so far, there are times when some divers and snorkelers can get a little too close and may stress the marine life or crush and break corals.
• Most damage occurs as a result of those who are unable to maintain good control in the water (for example, through fighting a current, or trying to get a closer look, or taking photographs).
• By having good snorkel and dive practices, you'll be able to preserve this special world for others to experience.

The Authority’s do’s and don’ts is pretty common sense:

• Practice buoyancy control over sand patches before approaching a reef - test buoyancy whenever you're using new equipment such as new wetsuits, buoyancy control devices (BCDs) and cameras.
• Make sure you are properly weighted before diving near a reef.
• Check that all your dive gear is secure before you get into the water so that it doesn't dangle and catch on the reef.
• Move slowly and deliberately in the water, relax and take your time - avoid rapid changes in direction.
• Avoid leaning on, holding onto or touching any part of the reef - this is particularly important when you are taking underwater photographs.

CORAL and PADI’s Project Aware offers these points:

• Never touch corals; even a slight contact can harm them and some corals can sting or cut you.
• Carefully select points of entry and exit to avoid areas of reef.
• Make sure all your equipment is well-secured.
• Make sure you are neutrally buoyant at all times.
• Maintain a comfortable distance from the reef.
• Practice good finning and body control to avoid accidental contact with the reef or stirring up the sediment.
• Stay off the bottom and never stand or rest on corals.
• Avoid using gloves and kneepads in coral environments.

Coral can fight back if touched as I first learned when I brushed up against fire coral in Bonaire. 

I also think the education approach works best.  At Looe Key in the Florida Keys in 1995, I recall being roundly and loudly chastised by a fledgling divemaster who spied rubberized cotton gloves in my dive bag.  The conversation went something like this:

“You can’t wear gloves, you’ll be tempted to handle the coral if you do.”

“Um OK.  I don’t really plan on touching anything.  I know better.  Sorry, I carry the gloves in my bag more out of habit for working around wrecks.”

“Well, you are not diving wrecks. You can’t wear them on the reef.”

"OK, but if you don’t want people to wear gloves, which I get, why does the dive shop you work for sell them in the dockside store or do you do wreck charters as well?” 

He huffed and walked away.

I think every teen divemaster at a resort practices that ‘I know better than you’ sneer that comes with the zealousness of a newly issued DM certification card and a mission to fight coral molestation.  His point was well taken; it just could have been better made.  A better approach might have been to engage in a conversation and education.